Scotland by public transport: the perfect itinerary

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Day 1: Arrival in Glasgow

Day 2: Exploring Glasgow

Day 3: Train from Glasgow to Fort William (seafari in Fort William)

Day 4: Hike up Ben Nevis

Day 5: Train from Fort William to Mallaig, ferry from Mallaig to Armadale, bus from Armadale to Portree

Day 6: Exploring the north of Isle of Skye

Day 7: Bus from Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh, train from Kyle of Lochalsh to Edinburgh (via Inverness)

Day 8: Exploring Edinburgh

Day 9: Last morning in Edinburgh, end of trip

 

 

Itinerary: 1 day (2 nights)

Arrival at one of the Glasgow train stations, spend the next day in Glasgow and leave the day after to Fort William.

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Things to do (for free)

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George Square

George Square is the central square of Glasgow. This large open square is surrounded by impressive buildings, including Glasgow City Chambers, the Mitchell Library, and the Theatre Royal. There are also several statues of important Scottish figures on the square, such as Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and James Watt. And you can find a very special cocktail bar here (check out the bars and restaurant section).

In the summer, George Square is a lively place. There are often performances by street musicians, artists, and performers. In the winter, the square is transformed into a Christmas market.

 

Glasgow Cathedral

Glasgow Cathedral, a masterpiece of

Gothic architecture that has stood the

test of time for over 800 years. It is the

oldest cathedral on mainland

Scotland and a must-visit for history

and architecture enthusiasts. Don't

forget to check out the Cathredal's

basement, a hidden gem beneath the

surface. 

Entrance fee: free. 

 

People's Palace & Glasgow Green

A visit to People's Palace is like stepping into the past and it will give you a good impression of the everyday life of Glaswegians. 

The grand Victorian building invites you on a  journey through time. Since opening in 1898, this institution preserves and shares Glasgow's diverse past. You will encounter recreated homes and workplaces with authentic furnishings, such as the hustle of a Victorian apartment building or the lively conversations in a historic pub. More than a museum, the People's Palace is a living testament to Glasgow's growth, witnessing its transformation from an industrial hub to a bustling metropolis. The interactive exhibits reveal the impact of industrialization and the changing social landscape.

Entrance fee: free.

People's Palace is located within Glasgow Green, a beautiful public park. Great for a nice walk before or after visiting People's Palace while seeing iconic landmarks like the Nelson Monument and the McLennan Arch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum & Kelvingrove Park

If you like art, history and science then this is the place to be. Discover 22 galleries filled with art, archeological finds and even stuffed animals. The museum is surrounded by Kelvingrove Park, which is great for nice stroll as well.

Entrance fee: free

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Byres Road

Byres Road is one of Glasgow's most famous streets, located in the West End of Glasgow. It is one of the main streets in this part of the city and is known for its vibrant atmosphere, shops, restaurants, cafes, and cultural institutions. Byres road is home to the Glasgow Botanic Gardens, and close to the University of Glasgow. Head to the bars and restaurant section for my favorite place to get a drink on Byres road. 

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Bars and Restaurants (with great vegan options)

Bar Soba: for brunch, lunch, diner and drinks (South East Asian street food and cocktails).

​The Ivy Buchanan Street: all-day dining.

​Chaophraya: afternoon tea, diner and drinks (Thai dining).

​Serenity Now Cafe: brunch (11am-4pm).

​Hillhead bookclub: brunch, lunch, diner and cocktails.

​Amazing cocktail bar on George Square: The Alchemist.

My favorite spot on Byres Road: Bothy – a must-visit in summer! Their terrace is a hidden gem, a small and relaxing garden in the big city.

 

Where to stay

City Centre:

The city center is a convenient choice for those who want to be close to major attractions, shopping, dining, and nightlife. It's a bustling area with various hotels, luxury and budget options.

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West End:

The West End is known for its vibrant atmosphere, cultural attractions, and green spaces. It's home to the University of Glasgow, the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, and trendy shops and cafes.

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Merchant City:

This area is famous for its historical architecture, trendy bars, and independent boutiques. 

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Finnieston:

Finnieston has become a popular and trendy area with a vibrant nightlife scene, excellent dining options, and proximity to the SECC (Scottish Event Campus). 

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Southside:

The Southside offers a more residential feel while still being close to the city center. It's known for its parks, including Queen's Park, and has a diverse range of accommodations.

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East End:

The East End has undergone significant regeneration, and it's home to the Glasgow Green park, the People's Palace, and the Emirates Arena. 

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Keep in mind that Glasgow has a very well-connected public transportation system, so you can always easily access other parts of the city.

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We decided to stay in CitizenM, perfect location close to the city center and just a 10 minute walk to Glasgow central station, which is great if you're on a train journey through Scotland.

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Itinerary: 3 days (2 nights)

Train from Glasgow to Fort William (duration: 3 hours and 52 minutes), spend the rest of that day and the next day in Fort William, leave on the third day to Isle of Skye. 

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Things to do

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Seafari

If you're an adrenaline junkie, wildlife lover and Harry Potter fan, then this is probably the travel activity of your dreams. The seafari in Fort William is one of the best experiences we had on our journey through Scotland. This seafari includes: racing the Hogwarts Express train along the banks of Loch Eil, visiting a local seal colony (with pups from September till November). If you're lucky you will also see a sea eagle. 

We had such a friendly and funny guide who can tell you a lot about the wildlife and surrounding area. I would definitely recommend this tour if you're visiting Fort William. We booked it here. [UPDATE 2026: unfortunately this tour is not running anymore, but I found something similar here].

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Ben Nevis

Don't underestimate this hike (like we did). Read on for everything you need to know before starting your Ben Nevis hike. Height: 1,370m (4,413ft), duration: approximately 7-9hrs (to the summit and back). There are several routes you can take, but the easiest and most common one is the Mountain Track (also goes by the Tourist Route). It starts at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre. 

Here is a complete overview of all the routes you can take up to Ben Nevis:

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Tourist Path (Mountain Track):

As I said, this is the most popular and well-maintained route, often referred to as the Tourist Path or Mountain Track. It starts at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre and follows a well-defined path up the mountain.

Characteristics: Gradual ascent, well-marked, suitable for beginners and tourists.

Ascent: 1370m

Distance: Approximately 10 miles (16 km) round trip.

Duration: 7-9 hours (round trip) 

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Carn Mor Dearg Arete from Glen Nevis:

This route is more challenging and involves traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete before reaching the summit of Ben Nevis. It offers stunning views but requires some scrambling skills. Starts at the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre. 

Characteristics: Challenging, exposed in places, requires scrambling.

Ascent: 1800m

Distance: 19.8 km.

Duration: 8-10 hours.

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CMD Arete from North Face Car Park:

Starting at the North Face Car Park, this route ascends via the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, providing excellent views. It's a more challenging alternative to the Tourist Path. While both routes, Carn Mor Dearg Arete and CMD (Carn Mor Dearg) Arete from the North Face Car Park, involve traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, they have some differences in terms of their starting points and the overall experience.

Characteristics: Challenging, requires some scrambling, less crowded than the Tourist Path.

Ascent: 1500m

Distance: Approximately 10 miles (17 km) round trip.

Duration: 8-10 hours.

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Ledge Route:

Ledge Route is a more challenging and less-frequented option, starting from the North Face Car Park. This one also involves some scrambling.

Characteristics: Challenging, involves scrambling, less crowded.

Distance: Approximately 8 miles (13 km) round trip.

Duration: 8-10 hours.

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Tower Ridge (Winter Route):

Tower Ridge is a challenging winter route, involving climbing and mountaineering skills. It's considered one of the classic ridges in Scotland.

Characteristics: Advanced, winter conditions, climbing skills required.

Distance: Varies based on the chosen winter route.

Duration: Full day.

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Make sure you are well prepared for the route you choose. Wear the suitable footwear (hiking shoes), bring enough food and water and plastic bags/containers (to take your own garbage with you, as there are no garbage bins on the routes). Be prepared for the Scottish weather and don't forget to bring enough sunscreen and rain clothing.

 

 

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Harry Potter Bridge

Even if you're not a Harry Potter fan, visiting the Glenfinnan Viaduct should still be on your list of must-see destinations. The iconic viaduct is located just a 30-minute drive from Fort William, by car or bus. Take bus 500 and check the timetables as the service only operates twice daily. While the bridge itself is stunning, for the full experience I would advise you to check the timetables of the Jacobite Steam Train (the Harry Potter train) to see it cross the bridge in full speed with billows of steam coming out of the majestic locomotive. This will add a layer of magic to your visit.

If you follow my itinerary, you will go over this bridge on your way from Fort William to Isle of Skye, not in the Jacobite Steam train, but in the normal Scotrail train. It is, however, worth it to visit the bridge without being on a train as you will not be able to see it that well from within the train. 

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Bars and Restaurants

The Wildcat: cosy vegan cafe, breakfast, brunch, lunch, speciality coffee, sweet pastries and a zero waste whole foods shop. (Personal favorite)

The Old Deli: breakfast, brunch and lunch (vegan options).

Ben Nevis Inn: breakfast, lunch and dinner (vegan options).

Crannog at Garrison West: dinner (seafood restaurant with vegan options)

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Where to stay

Fort William is quite small, so it does not really matter where you stay in terms of location. We decided to stay in the area between the train station and the Glen Nevis visitor centre (start of the regular Ben Nevis hike). It is a 40 min walk from the city centre/train station to the Glen Nevis visitor centre. There are bus services, but they don't go often so we walked everything. Fort William is a small town, but a very popular destination, so make sure you book you accommodation in far in advance.

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Itinerary: 1.5 days (2 nights)

Train from Fort William to Mallaig (duration: 1 hour and 24 minutes), ferry from Mallaig to Armadale (duration: 30 min), bus from Armadale to Portree (2 hours and 15 minutes). We arrived in the afternoon, spend the next day exploring Isle of Skye, left on the third day to Edinburgh. I would recommend to spend more time on Isle of Skye if you have the time!

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Things to do

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The Fairy Glen

Visiting the Fairy Glen is like walking straight into a fairytale. A stunning landscape with mystical hills and moss-covered rocks. Local folklore has tales of tiny fairies inhabiting pointy hills, hence the name Fairy Glen. Walk through this stunning landscape until you see Castle Ewen, known as the Fairy Castle of Scotland. It looks like a fortified old tower, but Castle Ewen is a natural basalt rock formation.

 

How to get here by public transport:

Take bus 57C from Portree and get out at The Uig Hotel and follow the sign to 'Sheader and Balnaknock'. After walking 1600m up this minor road you will reach the Fairy Glen parking area. You can also take bus 57A,

bus 57A and C journey around the north of Skye (C goes clockwise and A anti-clockwise). So depending on where you're coming from, it's faster to take either 57A or 57C. Check the Stagecoach Bus timetable for more info on the timetables of busses on Isle of Skye.

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The Quiraing

The Quiraing, located on the Isle of Skye in Scotland, gets its name from Old Norse words meaning “round folding.” It is a 543m high landslide on the eastern side of Meall na Suiramach, the northernmost peak of Trotternish Ridge. This hike should definitely be on your list as it passes through some of the most spectacular landscapes in Scotland.

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Practical info about the hike:

Start: The Quiraing hike is a loop, starting and ending at the same place: the parking lot halfway between Digg and Uig.

Arriving by car: If you arrive by car, you can either access the parking lot from the Staffin village (the Digg side) or from the Uig village. These villages are connected by a single track road. 

Arriving by public transport: Take bus 57A or 57C to Flodigarry, from here you can walk all the way to the parking lot where the Quiraing hike starts. However, reaching this parking lot is a hike in itself. I would advise you to hitchhike from the bus stop to the start of the Quiraing hike. Hitchhiking is quite common on Isle of Skye and we got two rides (one up and one down in just a couple of minutes), so it's definitely doable. 

 

Historical fun fact: It is said that during the Viking invasions, cattle was hidden on the Quiraing.
Geographical fun fact: The Quiraing has a dynamic landscape, is the only part of this area that still shifts, requiring annual repairs to the road at its base in Flodigarry.

 

Kilt Rock & Mealtfalls

Another beautiful landmark that is worth visiting is Kilt Rock & Mealtfalls. Do you know why it is called Kilt Rock? This stunning natural formation rises an impressive 90 meters above the Atlantic Ocean, revealing layers of ancient basalt columns that look like a pleated kilt. From here you can watch the beautiful Mealtfalls go into the ocean. It is also a great viewpoint to see whales and orcas (if you’re lucky).

 

Practical info:

Arriving by car: there is a parking area exactly behind Mealtfalls.

It is a 30 min drive from Portree.
Arriving by public transport: We took the bus from Portree to

Mealtfalls. Bus 57A and C journey around the north of Skye (C goes

clockwise and A anti-clockwise). If you take bus 57A from Portree

you will need to get off at Road End, however we experienced that

the bus drivers are super friendly and if you just tell them exactly

where you want to go, they will stop as close as they can to your

destination. Custom stops were quite common on Isle of Skye.

From Portree it is a 40 min drive by bus 57A. 

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Bars and Restaurants

We stayed in Portree, so these suggestions will all be based in Portree.

Café Arriba: all-day breakfast, daily specials and soups (vegan options)

Birch Café: breakfast, brunch and lunch, speciality coffee and sweet pastries (vegan options)

Lower Deck Seafood restaurant: dinner (vegetarian dish of the day)

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Important tip: Portree is a very popular base for Skye visitors, so make sure you make your dinner reservations beforehand.  A lot of restaurants were already fully booked for our entire stay, so we did not have a lot of choice. And for the restaurants that did not work with reservations we had to stay in line for at least 30 minutes.

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Where to stay

This depends on what you want to see on Isle of Skye and wether you are traveling by public transport or by car. This blog is about public transport, so here we go. 

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Portree: As the largest town on the Isle of Skye, Portree offers the biggest range of accommodation options, including hotels, B&Bs, guesthouses, and hostels. It serves as a transportation hub with bus connections to various parts of the island, making it a convenient base for exploring Skye. This is where we stayed.

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Dunvegan: If you're interested in exploring the western side of Skye, Dunvegan is a picturesque village with attractions like Dunvegan Castle. It has a few places to stay and is accessible by bus from Portree.

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Broadford: Located on the southern coast of Skye, Broadford is another popular destination with a selection of accommodation choices. It has bus connections to Portree and other parts of the island, as well as shops, restaurants, and outdoor activities.

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Uig: If you're planning on visiting the Outer Hebrides, Uig is a great to have as your base on Skye. Located on the northern coast of Skye, Uig is known for its ferry terminal connecting Skye to the Outer Hebrides. It has a few accommodation options and offers bus connections to Portree and other destinations on the island.

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The reason we chose to stay in Portree is that we had limited time on the island and we wanted to see as much as possible. The Portree busses that circle around the north of Skye are perfect for exploring some of Skye's best landmarks in a limited amount of time. 

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How to get around Isle of Skye without a car

There are multiple ways to travel around Isle of Skye without a car and I will list them from most expensive to least expensive. Check out my complete guide on Isle of Skye without a care here.

Private taxi tour: you can rent a private taxi for a day. 
The upside of this option is that you can plan the day(s) entirely to your liking. You can visit the parts that you want to see and skip the parts you don’t want to see. 
The downside of this option is that it is quite expensive.

Tip: There's a 10% discount for taxi and car hire on Skye with Kyle Taxis/Skye Car Hire if you have the Scottish Grand Tour pass from Scotrail (for more info check the 'how to save money on trains' section in this blog or go to the Scotrail website . 

Small group tour: you can book a small group tour for a half day or a full day. 
It is less expensive than the first option, but you cannot create your own itinerary.
These tours try to put as much highlights of the island in one day, so you probably won’t miss anything. 

Public transport (the option we went for): buses run around the Island, but not so regularly. However, if you plan it right, it is absolutely doable. 
Upside is that it is cheap, downside is that you sometimes have to wait long at the busstops and you will therefore not be able to see as much in one day compared to the small group tour.
 

Hitchhiking: I would not recommend to hitchhike during your entire journey on Isle at Skye, but it is not completely uncommon on Isle of Skye. As I said before, we did it when visiting the Quiraing. There is a bus stop all the way down the road, but it is a very long uphill hike to reach the beginning of the Quiraing, so we hitchhiked up and down.

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Itinerary: 2.5 days (2 nights)

Bus from Portree to Kyle of Lochalsh (duration: 1 hour). Train from Kyle of Lochalsh to Edinburgh (duration: 7-8 hours). If you have more time you can choose to get out at Inverness (located between Kyle of Lochalsh and Edinburgh).

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Things to do

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Royal Botanic Garden

The Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh is a calm oasis, filled with diverse plant collections and beautiful flowers. Open daily from 10 AM to 4 PM, admission is free, with optional donations encouraged to support ongoing conservation efforts and educational programs. 

The entrance to the Royal Botanic Garden is located on Arboretum Place, which is off Inverleith Row. The garden can be easily accessed by bus, bike or foot.

 

Visit one of the cute bookshops

Located close the Royal Botanic Garden,  is a cute little bookshop called 'The Gently Mad'. The perfect rainy day activity when visiting Edinburgh. This bookshop makes you go back in time, the smell of dusty books and old leather volumes welcome you when entering the shop. Apart from books they also sell 19th century vintage postcards which you can browse through in the store.
 

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile in Edinburgh is a historic lane stretching from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Lined with charming cobblestone streets, it's home to iconic landmarks, quaint shops, and cozy cafes. Free to wander, open year-round.

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The Ghost Bus Tour

This is definitely the coolest way to check out Edinburgh. Hop

aboard this vintage bus for a comedy-horror theatre

sightseeing experience on wheels. See all the top attractions

in style, while being immersed in a true theatre show

experience. The antique lamps and red velvet curtains make

for a great experience. Tours can be booked all year round. 

Click here to book.

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Dean Village

​This peaceful village in Edinburgh is just a 10 min walk away from

the busy city centre. Its charming cobblestone streets, historic

buildings, and scenic riverside walks make it feel like you're

walking straight into a fairytale. You can explore its beauty on foot,

with nearby bus stops and parking available. 

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Scottish National Gallery

The Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh showcases a rich collection of Scottish and international art, including works by renowned artists like Rembrandt and Monet. Located on The Mound, it's easily accessible from the city center. Admission is free and it's open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM, except Thursdays until 7 PM.

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Edinburgh Castle, underground vaults tour, Palace of Holyroodhouse

Probably three of the most popular things to do in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Castle, seated atop Castle Rock, is filled with interesting Scottish history.. Its ancient walls and magnificent Crown Jewels stand as testaments to centuries of history and royal heritage.

Beneath the bustling streets, the Underground Vaults hold tales of ghosts and secrets, providing a glimpse into Edinburgh's hidden depths.

At the foot of the Royal Mile lies Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Explore the state apartments and wander through the serene palace gardens.

Tickets for these iconic attractions sell out fast, especially during peak seasons, so make to secure your tickets in advance online.

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Bars and Restaurants

Hendersons of Edinburgh: A long-standing vegetarian institution that also offers many vegan options. They have a bistro on Thistle Street and a restaurant on Hanover Street.

Paradise Palms: Known for its funky atmosphere and vegan comfort food like burgers, nachos, and cocktails. Located on Lothian Street.

David Bann: A vegetarian restaurant with many vegan options. It's known for its upscale dining experience and innovative dishes. Located on St Mary's Street.

Holy Cow: A vegan café offering breakfast, lunch, and snacks with a focus on sustainability. Located on Elder Street.

Novapizza Vegetarian Kitchen: A vegan Italian restaurant serving pizza, pasta, and desserts. Located on Howe Street.

Kalpna: An Indian vegetarian restaurant with a wide range of vegan options. Located on St Patrick Square.

Nova Scotia: A pub offering vegan options including burgers and other comfort foods. Located on Constitution Street.

The Baked Potato Shop: While not exclusively vegan, this spot offers many vegan fillings for their baked potatoes, making it a popular choice. Located on Cockburn Street.

PizzaExpress: Delicious pizzas and Italian cuisine, with multiple locations across the city, including one at 1 Deanhaugh Street and another at 59 North Bridge, both with vegan options. 

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Where to stay

Edinburgh is not a really big city and has a very well-connected public transportation system, so it does not really matter where you plan to stay in the city. We find that from all the locations in this itinerary, Edinburgh was the most expensive one when it came to finding accommodation. I would advise you to book a hotel, hostel or B&B as early as possible. 

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Let's answer the most important question: How can you pay €100 for an 9 day train journey through Scotland, that would normally cost you around €200. (Plus everything you need to know when traveling through Scotland by train).

Step 1: Buy a ScotRail travelpass (buy it here). They have multiple travelpasses suitable for different parts of the country and for a different amount of days. These passes will bring you every corner of this beautiful country. Choose the pass which suits you best, for our itinerary we chose the Scottish Grand Tour ticket. 

Step 2: Activate the pass each day you want to travel with it and you will receive a QR code for the rest of that day. All of the passes are valid on trains, and some are also valid on busses and ferries (depending on the ticket you choose).

Plan ahead. The travel passes give you unlimited travel on a set number of days, so make sure your travel plans align with the amount of days that you can travel with the train pass.

 

What route did we take? We bought the Scottish Grand Tour ticket. Giving us 4 days of unlimited travel for 8 consecutive days. We went from Glasgow to Fort William. From Fort William to Portree (Isle of Skye) and from Portree all the way to Edinburgh.

Important info: the pass in valid only on off-peak hours. And the Scottish Grand Tour pass does not include ferry rides, so if you want to follow my exact itinerary, you have to buy the ferry ticket to Isle of Skye separately. 

You can only travel in one direction, clockwise or anti clockwise (following a circular route).

Fun fact: the Scottish Grand Tour pass is valid on the West Highland Line in Scotland (considered one of the most scenic train routes in the world!).

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If you have more time to explore Scotland by train, you can opt for one of the other Scotland and Highlight Rover tickets on Scotrail.

 

If you plan to take the Scottish Grand Tour like we did and you want to extend your trip, I would advise you to spend more time on Isle of Skye and/or add Inverness to your itinerary.

 

Isle of Skye has so many other beautiful places to discover, such as: Old Man of Storr, Fairy Pools, Neist point, Dunvegan Castle, Talisker Bay, Loch Coruisk and the Coral Beach.

 

Isle of Skye is also the perfect base to go on a wildlife boat trip. Brigadoon and Stardust leave from Portree Harbour. If you're lucky you can spot seals, puffins, dolphins, orcas and whales.

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As the capital of the Scottish Highlands, Inverness is absolutely worth a visit. It has great historic sites, such as Inverness castle, and stunning natural beauty, such as the famous Loch Ness. It is also a great base to explore the beautiful Cairngorms National Park.

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Last tip: check out this website for information about different walking routes.