Cornwall without a car: The ultimate weekend guide

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We based ourselves in St Ives, a charming seaside town with art-filled streets, fishing boats bobbing in the harbour, surfers chasing waves at sunset, and the most breathtaking coastal walks. The railway line to St Ives is one of the most scenic in the UK. As the train winds along the coastline from St Erth, it offers stunning views of Carbis Bay and the turquoise waters of St Ives Bay. 

We stayed at Treloyhan Manor and if you’re travelling without a car, Treloyhan Manor is the ideal place to stay. It’s just a 15-minute walk from St Ives and only five minutes from a bus stop with direct routes to Penzance and other parts of Cornwall. The suites are bright, clean, and equipped with modern kitchens, and the beds are really comfortable, exactly what you need after a day exploring the coast. The friendly concierges were always happy to help plan bus routes or nearby walks. The best part? The hot tubs with sea views, the perfect way to end a day in Cornwall.

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*I was partially hosted by Treloyhan Manor, but as always, all thoughts and recommendations are entirely my own.

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​From London
Take the train from London Paddington to St Erth (direct or via Plymouth), the main interchange for St Ives. The journey takes about 5.5 hours. From St Erth, hop on the St Ives branch line: a short 10-minute ride offering spectacular sea views.

 

From other UK cities
If you’re coming from elsewhere in England, check routes to Penzance or St Erth.

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From mainland Europe
We travelled from Rotterdam to London via Eurostar (3.5 hours), then continued to Cornwall by train.

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Tip: if you’re travelling to Cornwall by train, I highly recommend using the Trainline app to book your tickets. It’s super easy to use: you’ll get a QR code straight in the app, so there’s no need to print anything. Just scan the code at the gates and you’re good to go.

 

 

 

After checking in, spend your first afternoon exploring St Ives. Wander through its narrow cobbled streets filled with art galleries and independent shops, and enjoy dinner by the harbour.

St Ives is special because you can actually see the tides change. At low tide, boats rest on the sand and you can walk between them; a few hours later, the harbour fills completely with water.

Our favourite dinner spot was Talay Thai Kitchen, delicious food, plenty of vegan options, and great views over St Ives harbour. 

 

 

 

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The Crown Mines at Botallack are among Cornwall’s most dramatic sights: perched on cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. Once part of the 19th-century tin industry, these mining engine houses now form one of the most photographed coastal scenes in England.

 

How to get there by public transport:

• From St Ives take bus 17 towards St Just.

• Get off at Queen’s Arms and walk about 15

       minutes to the cliffs.

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From the Crown Mines, continue along the

South West Coast Path to Cape Cornwall for a

scenic coastal walk. Then take the bus back

to St Ives.

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One of our favourite hikes in Cornwall! The trail is moderately challenging with lots of ups and downs, but the scenery, wild cliffs, turquoise sea and blooming heather, makes every step worth it. And if you're lucky you might even spot a seal.

 

How to get there by public transport:

• Take the bus 16A (towards Penzance)

       from St Ives and get off at Zennor Turn.

• From Zennor Turn it's a 15 min walk

       towards Zennor Head, a rugged view-

       point with beautiful ocean panoramas.

       From there, hike back along the South

       West Coast Path to St Ives. The route is

       about 10 km and takes 4–5 hours

       depending on your pace.

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                                                                                         On your last day, take the bus to Marazion. Or the train to St                                                                                              Erth and then the bus to Marazion. From there it's a 15-minute                                                                                          walk to St Michael’s Mount: Cornwall’s fairytale island castle.                                                                                              At low tide, you can walk across the cobblestone causeway                                                                                                from Marazion to the island.

                                                                                         Always check tide times in advance to plan your visit. You can                                                                                          easily plan your trip with according to the tides here:

                                                                                         St Michael’s Mount tide times.

The island itself wasn’t particularly special in my opinion, but walking across the cobblestone causeway, only possible at low tide, was a really fun and unique experience. After returning to St Ives, end the day watching surfers at Porthmeor Beach, in my opinion the most beautiful beach in St Ives. 

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St Ives has five main beaches, all within walking distance:

Porthmeor Beach: our favourite for surf-watching and sunsets.

Porthminster Beach: calm, family-friendly, great for swimming.

Harbour Sands: right in the centre, walk around the boats at low tide.

Porthgwidden Beach: a small sheltered cove near the headland.

Bamaluz Beach: often quieter.

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Cornwall’s weather is famously unpredictable, you can experience sunshine and rain within the same hour.

Spring (April–June): mild weather, fewer crowds, beautiful wildflowers.

Summer (July–August): warmest and liveliest, but also the busiest.

Autumn (September–October): still warm sea temperatures and colourful sunsets. We went at the end of September and absolutely loved it!

Winter (November–March): quieter, moody skies, great for storm watching.

Tip: we visited in September and had the full mix: sunshine, showers, wind and rain, so dress in layers and always bring a waterproof jacket.​​​​​​

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Budget breakdown of this trip

Train from Rotterdam to London (round trip): €88

Train from London to St Ives (round trip): €145

Accomodation in St Ives: €600

Food: €220

Local buses: €23

Extras: €18 for the Electronic Travel Authorisation (This is the UK’s new digital travel permission for EU travellers. You apply here online before your trip.